On top of the world with old clothes

2006/08/06 Galarraga Aiestaran, Ana - Elhuyar Zientzia

• Materialak
• Historia

Who were the first to tread the summit of Everest, Mallory and Irvine or Hillary and Tenzing?

R. R. Ranieri

George Mallory and Sandy Irvine tried to climb to Everest in 1924. They had good time and had oxygen bottles, but they did not return. They saw them for the last time on June 8, when they were trying to overcome one of the obstacles that are on the way to the top. Since then it was not known until in 1999 they discovered the body of Mallory on the north side of Everest.

Mallory and Irvin left a Kodak friend with a photo camera. They searched the camera to check if there were photos taken at the top. Unfortunately there were no cameras around the body. Did Irvine have a camera? It is very possible because Irvin liked photography very much, but they have not found Irvine's footprint.

Without evidence

There is no doubt that Hillary and Tenzing reached the summit of Everest. This made them famous all over the world.

Although they have not found clear evidence, supporters of Mallory and Irvine are still looking for clues. Not only that, but they want to show that they may be the first to arrive. And, according to many experts, it was impossible to reach those heights with the material and clothes they had. And they have tried to nullify it. Try and get.

Precisely this same year they have shown that the garments that Mallory had were fit to climb to Everest: Graham Hoyland, one of his friend's nieces who left the camera of Mallory and Irvine, climbs to Everest with a copy of Mallory's clothes.

To make their clothes they have been based on the traces of the garments that Mallory's body had. Experts from Lancaster, Leeds, Southampton and Derby Universities have conducted an analysis of the Mallory costume. Then a copy of the garments has been made and it has been studied if they are suitable to circulate through the mountain.

Like onions

As at present, Mallory wore several layers. The difference is in the materials and in the number of layers: the synthetic fabrics of last generation were replaced by wool and cotton, with a total of eight layers.

According to Hoyland, this type of sock is ideal for going to Everest.

The outer layer was a barge, robust, waterproof but breathable, and lighter than today. The air that was trapped among the other seven layers it carried with it protected from the cold. It is known that inert air is a great insulator and so has Hoyland confirmed. According to him, he has been very sweet and hot, even when the wind was blowing.

Hoyland also sees very well the backwear that Mallory toured. Along with the synthetic materials used by today's mountaineers, the old underwear is much richer, adapts better to sound and, in addition, does not ole so bad when sweating.

In general, the old costume adapts better to movements than the current one and is more comfortable and protects well from cold and humidity. It should be noted that the footwear and gloves of Hoyland were similar to those of Mallorca and that it has had no problem. So Hoyland believes that, at least, clothes did not prevent them from reaching the top.

Did Mallory and Irvine arrive? Are they going to link tests? Time will tell.

Published in 7K.